Lauzerte

Lauzerte is an intriguing and surprising place. It is one of the "plus beaux villages de France" (one of the most beautiful villages in France), an accolade given to villages in recognition of the quality of their architecture, historical significance and environment. Lauzerte certainly fulfils these criteria, but more than that it is an intriguing idiosyncratic town.

Its origins are as a fortified settlement for the Gauls and its name dates from 1000 AD, from the Latin 'lucerna' or lamp, in recognition of its position, visible from afar like a lamp.

At the end of the 12th century it was given to the Count of Toulouse for him to create a castelnau: a city protected by a castle. Strategically and economically important, the project was immediately successful and 200 building plots were distributed to his supporters. By 1200 glorious buildings lined the long road twisting up the flanks of the hill to a south facing plateau by the chateau with far reaching views across the surrounding valleys. At this time the main threat was from the English and this fortified town with its chateau, towers and 6 fortified gates was the pride of its inhabitants and the kings of France: Henri IV called it « une de nos quatre clefs dudit pays de Quercy […] presque imprenable, tout à cause de la situation que forteresse ». However, despite this it was occupied by the English in the 100 years war and later changed hands in the Wars of Religion.

It was a halt on the route of the Pilgrimage to St Compostella, populous and rich, and the medieval houses still lining its streets today, bear witness to its historical significance as one of the best examples of a fortified village in the Midi Pyrenees.

From its position in the heart of the Chasselas grape zone d'appellation, and the production of 'Melons de Quercy' Lauzerte watched over a fertile and productive region of hills and valleys glowing with fruit trees, sunflowers, maize, vine and lavender and studded with the products of this richness: pigeonniers, windmills, stone built farms, churches.

The high village is laid out around the church of St Barthelemy and the 'top square', Place des Cornieres. This beautiful square, surrounded by the houses of the rich merchants and magistrates, shows clearly that those who lived there were powerful and rich and wanted magnificent surroundings to match. From 1450 it became a legal and administrative centre "sénéchaussée secondaire (juridiction d’appel)", presiding over 100 communes, and the income from this added to the riches resulting from its fertile surroundings and the money from the pilgrims on their way to St Compostella. These houses date from the 15th to 18th centuries. This square was ,and still is, at the heart of village life, and has hosted countless markets, spectacles, executions, announcements and battles.

Lauzerte's strategic significance has shaped the whole of the village: and every corner is witness to its long and significant development. The Barbacane was a defensive construction to protect the Porte d'Auriac from assaults from below; after the periods of greatest trouble an esplanade was developed from which there is another incomparable view over the surrounding countryside.

It continues to have a rich interest in the arts: there is a thriving community of painters, artisans, potters and the bar 'Puits de jour' in the top square is locally renowned for its live music.

The Saturday market in the top square is unlike most French village markets, with an idiosyncratic mix of crafts and bio-produced food. Even during the winter there are several restaurants, augmented in the summer when the visitors swell the numbers. From April to November the pilgrims wend their way up the hill with walking sticks and rucksacks, dogs and even occasionally donkeys. The library often hosts interesting exhibitions and arranges, for example an annual 'Festival of literature'. During the year many events are organised by the tourist office; from summer evening 'food markets', where the squares are filled with tables and chairs and stalls selling food; to 'Journée de l'arbre", a festival on a tree and wood-theme, where you can buy hand turned wooden crafts and the trees themselves. There is often a 'Marche des potiers': a Potery market, where you can buy from the many potters and ceramicists who work in the area.

Each year there is the 'Nuits de Lauzerte", where the whole village is transformed with lighting and music from 11 til 1am. As all over France June 21 is 'Music Day' and the Puits de Jour organises outdoor music til late into the night.

It is a living village, with infant and primary school in a wonderful building in the Place du Chateau, whose dining hall is the original, stone-vaulted hall (where the acoustics are so difficult that the children are only allowed to speak in whispers during their meal!) and a secondary school; 2 doctors, cafes, restaurants, 2 supermarkets, a hardware store, drycleaners, greengrocers, chemists, 3 bakeries, a newsagents which sells English papers, and much more.